A different historical method of LARP archery, both bows & crossbows.

I've given this a lot of thought. This method is different from traditional archery but harps back to late Medieval/Tudor/ Elizabethan tradition. Why?

Modern archers don't have helmets, hats and hoods that will get in the way.

Most modern archery is reliant of the point of aim being above the hand.

Modern archery does not have to contend with low poundage bows shooting heavy arrows.

Unless hunting, the target is static and a period of rest & aim is employed.

I'd suggest that you practice in your kit. See what gets in the way! What can catch the string? I'm trying to give you a range of tools that will allow you to find what works for you. It's fun trying. The dog or pillow-strapped young child you use as a target might find it less so. Character building, carry on.

This should be my second article. The first being how to set up a new bow. But at time of writing both the weather and virus restrictions are conspiring against me by making my coffee disappear.

When I were young I shot at about master bowman standard using a technique where the bow hand was used to aim. Your other hand locked by the nocking point. Great at distances where the aiming point was above the bow hand. When I learned about reenactment I joined The Norse Film & Pageant Society (later renamed the Vikings) I had to be able to shoot a frisbee (free range, at a range of about 10 yards) out of the air 2 out of 3 attempts. No limit on poundage, no checking of arrows. You were expected to hit your target (a person or held shield) and not allow your arrow to go into the crowd. In many ways this was a lot more like larp archery than the tamer reenactment archery of today. Larpers could practice by shooting a swinging cushion suspended from a tree branch.

I am indebted to this channel - Gary Chynne is a far better teacher than I could ever be. Please watch and absorb.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXPhjzpb15k

First steps. These are the same whatever method you use. There's lots of tutorials online but the basic is relax your shoulder blades while taking a breath. Helps if you have someone check your posture. Choose an object then move around it and point at it. You (hopefully) have binocular vision and an in-built sense of distance. If you get double vision, you need to tilt your head slightly, and the bow a bit more. Or you can use it. I always found it distracting as it differed if wearing glasses or not. I could not wear them on battlefield and the idea of contact lenses- no. If you find a technique where the arrow goes consistently to the left – allowing you better sight of your target, use it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-RnSsP3ix8

I have long been in the habit of “assuming the position” at groups of people and the odd pedestrian. Skateboarders are irresistible as a thrown ball to a dog. Practice with an arrow but no bow. There, that bunch of youths. That one first, cause damage. They will cluster. Which one is the leader? That one next. That one is reacting. Now-. A bow is a killing weapon. It isn't “self defence”. It's projecting your will against others. With a larp bow a child could kill.

Finally you get your bow in hand and something to shoot at. It helps if there's someone else there.

Arrows – if you're in a group that includes archers, ask any if they have any near the end of their life that they'll sell you as this process can be hard on them.

Your target. Take the stance. Put the head on the target. There, that spot. Smaller the spot the closer you will hit.* Pull the arrow back until the head is engaged. That is to say until it reaches the arrow rest or your hand. Normal archery relies on three points of stability being:

length of arrow drawn

nocking point on the string

anchor point on face, either the chin, a bead to the lips or finger to the corner of mouth.

The latter is the one we must dismiss.

Back to your target. Put the head on your target. Your method of doing this is up to you-. You can have your bow low and come to full draw with one breath. (learning to breathe is the key) Or you can place the head then draw back (breathe!) as Mr Chynne champions. My preferred method is to raise the head up, draw back and down onto the target. In my day the given wisdom was that the up method made you shoot low and the down method high. Treat it like putting on a jacket. Once you get your method, you stick to it.

Angling the bow at 45* does help, particularly with self bows (where the arrow rest is not cut into the bow) as it transfers a “kick out” into a “kick up”. But- as mentioned, that kick out may be the very thing that allows you to be accurate. Your hat, hood or helmet, just move your hand out. This was called “leaning into the shot” and was part of what was called “power archery” back in the day. You see illustrations of archers with one leg forward and a bent waist “hunched” over the arrow. As long as you clear the obstruction and point the arrow straight at the target. With your arm level let your arrow go. Don't attempt to aim. First you need to practice getting your arrow to go in the direction of the target. Not the left. Not the right. Ending up pointing at it. This can alter with the bow and arrow combination, so persevere. Get a line in your head like those red dots used in gunsights. A line through your wrists and arrow and onto the target.

Aiming. You sneaked ahead to this bit, didn't you? Recap. Head on the target and keep it there. Draw the arrow back, see your line. You know its going to go straight. Straight is good, now you want to get it up or down so you hit things. But if it ain't straight you're gonna miss.

Your drawing arm is nice and level. Shoot. If it fell short, bring your arm down about a hands width. Not you shoulder. Not your bow hand. Be a “T”. Look, you arm bends in the middle! Shoot again. Now try and get the arrow on target.

By now you've got the problem. Larp arrows have a defined stall point. Their shape and weight causes them to drop at a specific distance. Move your aim up and down, get a friend to mark the distance. Preferably by standing to one side & observing the drop. Get a second horizontal line in your head. Once past that distance you're not going to hit the proverbial.

There is another distance, the sweet point. This is at which your combination is best, where you can hit a small spot repeatedly. Another line. If you look back at Mr Chynne's videos, he always shoots at the same distance per bow.

The third is the shortest distance at which you'd consider it safe to shoot. This is the distance you either put your bow down, skip back or die. A lot say underdraw. This is a dangerous undershot and I never feel its safe enough to do. Never, ever, underbow a selfwood bow, you will shorten its life and may damage it because of the vibration.

This is no more complicated than the mental tricks required to drive a car. And like driving, it's different for each combination.

Now, your targets – a bunch of them. Make your choice, see your range lines, put you target line on your selected. Shield's good, make 'em pause. They're too far, wait, wait, there- just into the longest range- shoot. Second, approaching the sweet second line- there- shoot. Now, move back, again, there, just in the safe zone – shoot! But they will move, it's a slow arrow. Here lies the skill--.

Being The Target. That is to say the person, not persons, you are shooting at. If at all possible, larpers should get used to being shot at by archers.

ALL archers should be shot at as part of their training.

You have to shoot with your target, not against.

At one (well established) event I spotted a small group of elf archers whose equipment may have been low poundage, but high performance target recurves. They were shooting at very close range deliberately to cause pain or discomfort. The organisers and their victims let them get away with it. WTF-.

Choose your point of aim with care. Always aim at the bottom half of a shield as the arrow can bounce or be deflected. Worst it can tumble, being hit in the face (usually flat on) by the wrong end is not nice.

Get your targets attention. Why? OK, they will defend themselves, move, hunker down – whatever. But they will be aware of incoming and not cop one in a painful place. If they don't move that place, it's not your fault. You can make eye contact, say “Hah! I have you know!” Call “Fast” (still legally binding, hence saying fast and loose)

Have I been hit in painful places? Oh yes. An arrow coming straight at your eye is the weirdest experience--. IF you're going to be shot at – wear old glasses. I could fill a page of stories. Don't shoot ankles. **

The Crossbow. Same problem, but the draw length is consistent. Smaller crossbows can be used like flintlocks. Aim down your arm. Point it at the target. Shoot until you get it going straight. You'll notice that the practice was to bring the pistol down in a smooth ark until you reach the elevation that will cause a hit. Standing there pointing and aiming is for duels – not combat. So, load, straight up, down, shoot.

STRING. As my advice on bows, have 3. One on the bow, spare in the pouch, third at home. I have a lose string with a poundage of about 15Lb for close in work. It shoots about 5 yards with the wind behind it. So IF you're in close- you're safe. Your target can effectively phys rep shitting themselves.

Longer crossbows are often shot like guns. Bad practice, they are a different animal. The recoil of the gun is affecting the bullet as it leaves the weapon. A crossbow has a “forward recoil” that hits when the string is straight and excess energy gives the weapon but not the projectile a forward momentum.

My suggestion. Find the balance point of the weapon (with bolt in) Find in relation to this point where your preferred grip. Marking this point, a piece of leather, a rough patch where your thumb sits so you can grab without looking. How can you tell a thinking crossbowman? Look at the finger tips, if they are all there they are thoughtful. Two methods. As above, put bolt head on the target and raise or lower the butt. Without a recoil, you don't need it seated. The opposite is the reverse, if you're used to shooting a gun you'll find this more acceptable

• My sister was 10 years younger than me, so at age 8 was shooting as a juvenile. I was helping her set up at the 20 yard line at a club shoot. This 17 year old lad starting taking the piss out of me using a longbow & no sight. I looked at him and took 1 rather offhand shot. I walked away (my sister was 1^st up, him 3^rd) My arrow hit the + in the centre of the bull.

** My mate and I used to sneak up to local woods very early on a Sunday. He brought a soldier from the local spearhead regiment along one day. My composite bow (pre longbow) was a bit powerful (about 55Lb I think) so I shot to the side & not onto a person. I knew I could have hit, I hit where I aimed. I'd taken our young Labrador with us. The woods were alive with adders so I had to hold onto her. Once e left, I let her off the lead. She then kept about 25 yards in front & refused to return. That was fine, but we had a stretch of winding road and I could see her meeting an oncoming car in the middle of the road. I was getting angry, yelling and desperate. So- I shot her with the reenactment style fru's we were using. Snap shot at about 25yards at a moving target. I hit her ass. She went straight up, came down sitting with a WTF expression. An inspection of the bruise- I'd hit um, the centre spot.

Being in charge of a group of mediaevals. Now faced with a large group of archers. Every Other Bastard goes back without (my) orders leaving me as the main target. That was not a nice experience.

When young, aiming at a shield and another steps past, so my arrow hits him on the point of the hip. All I could do was apologise.

Not mine, but one chap used a shield and held it an an acute angle. A reenactment arrow hits, bounces up and under his sallet and hits (well, touches but that's bad enough) his eye.

Lock down sword training, some thoughts.

 When you turn up at larp, reenactment or any hobby, the one thing you don't want to do is look a complete beginner and an idiot.  Basic tool use is often the stumbling block.

No tool has more BS attached to it than the sword. There are thousands of different sword use manuals online. To be brutally efficient, a sword is a tool that works by the principals of the lever.

Have you done this? You need you, a (wooden, tube style will crumble) broom or similar and a small child. Adult grabs (brush end) broom in 2 hands with determination not to let it move. Child puts single finger on tip of broom and moves it with ease while adult struggles and broom creaks.

This is my attempt to put several decades of edged weapon training and use into a basic guide. All this ended just as the European Martial Arts movement started to gain pace, so its all old school hands on experience. There are posh names for moves, but I never learned them.  I started out in the 1970's. There were 2 schools of reenactment, both originating from WW2 – no-one's ever proved it, but I'm sure ex soldiers needing the environment to work out their PTS had a LOT to do with it. You had the toffs playing civil war, pedantic history teachers with pikes. Then you had us, working class persons who took to sword & armour manufacture & use like the proverbial. Our societies had a biker mentality that seems to have disappeared along with the rise of English Heritage & living history (hawk, spit) Let me give you an example. Like the Foreign Legion, there were no rules about not drinking. But- if one of the leaders thought you were drunk, you got the flat of a sword hard in the stomach. If you proved sober, an apology would be given.

Different swords are designed for different jobs.

Long thin swords are designed for both thrusting and slashing. Triangular swords are thrusting weapons, both using the first hand breadth of the blade to do the damage. In both reenactment and larp thrusting is a big no-no. We got round this by passing the point past the opponent then bringing the blade onto the target. Practice, you'll find the grip helps deliver a firm but gentle blow. These are precision instruments where you probe for the gap in your opponents defence and armour.

Curved swords such as katanas, scimitars. Plus point heavy slashing weapons such as falchions and cutlasses are designed to keep swinging. These and shorter swords used in conjunction with a shield or buckler are often held in a firm grip as are tool-like weapons such as axes and hammers.

One handed heavier swords are designed for close in fighting with or without a shield.

Nothing gets my wosname than the Katana. This weapon is the correct size when the tip of the scabbard is just above the ankle. You see adult Europeans carrying those sized for a 12 year old. Then you see same being used 2 handed. It's a 1 handed weapon, the extra long handle makes up for the lack of pommel.

Note on armour or thick padding. It's possible for your opponent not to feel your hit, but if you hold it and apply pressure until they react. Hold a book to your arm and get someone to hit it.

Taking time to develop your style to reflect the use of the weapon is very satisfying and is usually appreciated. Think of your swords as shoes. You (could) have different ones for different uses and occasions. Nothing makes many opponents bottle out than switching styles, and/or hand mid fight.

You have a sword. Fantastic, now lets get used to it. Balance. Each sword has a point of balance. This becomes more important as you learn to control your sword. This is the point at which your sword would bend if it was a limb. Think of your back, for some reason it bends in one spot. The swords reaction to parrying is different above & below this point. My preference is 2” below the guard for a 1 hander and a hands breadth for a 2 hander. You'll notice an experienced person holding a new sword out test its balance & tapping leg to gauge the length.

Hit things. Poke things. Pet dogs, cats and children are very useful for this. I used (metal) to move paperbacks from one pile to another. A dog will make a game out of running close to you without getting hit on the bum. Careful, we had 2 dogs- the labrador was happy to bite, pick up the sword. You can imagine my mum's reaction to a dog carrying a bastard sword through the house. Yes, she (dog) could get through door frames. With a larp sword a hanging curtain tied into a roll is useful. This gets you used to the length and balance.

Getting to grips. Make your dominant hand like a lego hand. Look at it. This is slot “A” into which you slot sword tab “B”. Gently grip using ONLY first finger & thumb. Leave the rest of the hand open.

Start hitting things again. Yes you can do this with anything up to a double hander. The chap from Sussex who made the original Schwarzenegger Conan sword first made it properly in steel. He'd bring it to shows and I tried it. Yes, it was heavy but well balanced and I could swing it safely using the above grip. Stop if you start to get self molesters hand ache.

Got it? Good. Keep practising. Now, elbow in tight, sword straight up. Close your fingers. Look at the movement you get. This is how you deliver a soft blow. You guessed it, keep hitting things. If your kids start complaining, get them a sword. Character building.

There is one other. Hold the grip as you would a screwdriver. End bit now guards your wrist and the weapon is now an extension of the arm. If you move the grip down so the weapon is held firmly against the forearm. This is a good grip if using a weapon for parrying. This is very good at denying polearms in the lower register. You parry the polearm, preferably behind the head. Keep it in contact while stepping in. You're now past the pointy bit and can hit the carrier. If faced by multiple, you need to try and use the first polearm to entangle and block the other(s). I found this when my wife commissioned an excellent replica of a 11c sword. The grip was so small- and I have relatively small hands. But, if I held it so that the pommel fitted the inside of my wrist it was a perfect fit.

Double hander or bastard sword. Basic dominant hand is the same, but now you need to use your other hand. One hand provides the power, the other the control. First, try the “hard” grip. 2 hands grasping the grip as you would a cricket bat. This is ideal if you want to hit something, or someone, very hard. Practice both. Try both hands, if you can use both as a dominant hand, you're laughing.

Before you start, keep this in the back of your mind:

keeping your elbows tucked in protects your armpits and chest

guard and grip are there to protect your face

length of the sword is to protect your inner legs and groin, walking requires practice. Getting a kid to throw balls, cabbages, cats or small dogs at you is good training.

Now is the real lever part. The grip concentrates the control to the crossguard, it's the fulcrum. You need to keep the distance betwix your hands as long as possible for the maximum control. Using the same grip on the pommel so that it sits into the palm of your hand. Try it.

If you have a bastard or very well balanced double, try just using your thumb (my Dad drove milk tankers before power steering, he drove the family car with only his thumb on the wheel) Amazing the amount of movement you can get with just your thumb. You know – keep hitting.

Making a hit.

Courtesy. A sword should never be pointed directly at your opponent. If you or your opponent are pushed, trip or lurch forward the weapon must not be able to cause injury. You can open your hand or even drop your weapon to keep everyone safe. Accidents happen, so good practice is never wasted.

Hopefully you are now confident to face and hit your opponent.

Parry edge to edge with a sword. Try to parry with the back with a one edged weapon and with a reinforced bit with a wooden hafted weapon. If you can parry a sword with an axe blade – you're a natural, keep going!

Being parried. Annoyingly your opponent will not stand still to be hit. This is, of course, unfair and not playing cricket. What is worst, they don't politely wait until you kill one opponent before attacking you! Unfortunately this bit needs more than your dog carrying a stick, cat suspended by tail* or child with own weapon.

*you could try several tied to different heights from a tree, get them swinging.

The 5's. This is an old, old method. Think of Da Vinci's famous drawing (it was on every note book in skool) demonstrating that man is the measure of all things. The body is an X with an extra downward strike to the head making the 5^th. Just because you're not supposed to be hit there, or receive a thrust from a sword should not stop you practising that defence.

The angles of the X are the main angles of attack and defence. Rules differ, but as a good rule of thumb is that if there's an area you don't like to be hit, do not hit others. This may differ in your opposite sex. Please use common sense and fight WITH your opponent, not AGAINST.

Having said that, there are several situations such as fighting multiple opponents, close or slippery ground that multiply accidents. We did one show in Fort Widley where it was dark, slippery and we were greatly outnumbered. We were both using polearms. Fay's was hit hard at the top, the other end was propelled into the naughty bits of the lad in front of her. I got clobbered 3 times on the head, one time knocking my glasses of. Always have a spare pair and wear old ones in combat if at all.

We all have a weak quarter that is the hardest/slowest to defend. Your choice of weapon(s) should reflect this:

If you use a shield the area below the reach of the shield is always vulnerable.

Shields also shield your opponent.

Shields can block line of site.

Many larpers fight with short weapons relying in getting in close to make multiple hits. This can be difficult at first as it puts you on the defensive and getting to absorb these initial contacts is a worthwhile skill. In reenactment you had (have?) the (usually) young lady with a long, thin, fast polearm & dagger relying on speed and maneuverability plus a willingness to hit you anywhere.

Dry stick parry. That sounds silly, I've no idea where that phrase originated but you'll feel what it means. When you parry you tend to do so with a right angle, so the weapons look like +. Nothing wrong with that, you're not being hit is good. But- where do you go from there?

What to do next is cultural. If you're in a shield wall you have to stay in line and hit anything that presents itself. So your response is to dress to your comrades.

Eastern culture emphasises the repetition of a series of moves, with parrying seemingly accidental and continued repetition is the correct response.

Western culture teaches that every thrust & parry is accompanied by a step forward. The aim is to push through your opponent.

As you progress & gain in confidence you'll come up against different weapons and varying levels of skill. Gain experience & analyse your fights. What could you have done better?

Well, now you've got used to your weapon, had some experience. Don't get put off by losing. Losing teaches you faster than winning. Thank your opponent and don't be afraid to ask for pointers. Be courteous. It's a game.

Now lets move on. You're used to your weapon being hit? The feel of different hits?

Remind yourself of the balance point. Remember I said that is where the sword wants to bend?

Angles. If you use a shallow angle so you have more edge in contact than your opponent. You now have more control.

Now take that close, on, or pass that magical point. You can now roll your blade in contact, keep a firm contact, and keep the opponents blade going in the direction it was already going.

IT IS ALWAYS EASIER TO MAKE SOMETHING GO

IN THE DIRECTION IT IS ALWAYS GOING.

So with the weapon out of the way you (usually) have 3 quarters available to hit.

Everything else comes with practice and hands on experience. Go out there and enjoy. There are no super weapons. A weapon is a tool that is used either rightly or wrongly for purpose. 

 There are highly skilled and /or sneaky individuals that you should pit yourself against at every opportunity. 

There are also utter prats who see a sword as “power” by hitting everything as hard and as often as possible.  Avoid.

Have a laugh, have fun!

Swash Buckling. a basic introduction.

 I'm doing this quick and dirty, so please – it will be replaced later by better written article with pretty pictures.

Many years ago I did a course & the provider noted that I helped a lot of people, so offered me the chance to teach CLAIT basic computing course. Sounds easy? Ok, look at your mouse. Now explain how to use it. So, if I'm not clear PLEASE give me constructive criticism.

I learnt this style at the first Bandits, Brigands and Buccaneers show, where several weapon classes were run. I've used this style several times to good effect. Like everything, it takes practice.

Swash buckling is the term for a form of defence designed for close in fighting on dangerous ground. This form was common with medieval travellers who carried a buckler over their arming sword as basic kit. Much as a cowboy wore his gun. It is different than most sword & buckler fighting as that in an offensive style(s).

Image you are in a dark, narrow alley (we still have these in Poole, I can arrange--) with a running sewer down the middle. You're an English late medieval archer faced with a lot of French in full plate, on a muddy field covered in corpses, bits of corpses and bits carried by corpses, that you want to persuade from further aggression. Now you're aboard a ship, betwix decks in the dark, cramped, narrow spaces. This style has evolved for the short, sharp and dirty combat these situations warrant.

You need a single handed sword or short sword plus buckler, pistol* or dagger.

A similar method can be used with a short(ish) staff.

Basic stance. Put your kit on now.

You need to be able to draw your sword using the wrong hand. Buckler, dagger or pistol by your dominant hand.

So your sword on your “off” hip gets drawn and used by your “off” hand, the wrong way. If you're using a suspended buckler grip it in your dominant hand first.

Grip your sword as if stopping it swinging. Blade down. Little finger down by the guard, thumb by the pommel. You'll notice that this grip is akin to that used on a mace, axe or similar. This grip can also be used to (hopefully) parry or respond to a surprise blow.

Have a waggle. Get used to the tension and using the heel of your hand against the guard. First thing you'll notice is that your non-dominant side is your best protected.

You can fight like that- a good thing to learn if you lose your dominant hand. If you have the chance, fight like this. As always note your swords balance point and the difference different parries make. You'll see this in Japanese films, where the (usually second) sword is gripped by the usual thumb & forefinger grip and the sword is swung in slashing attacks.

Next step. Adding the second element. The point is to make a “T” so you can parry as high as possible. All this sounds counter intuitive but with practice--.

Whatever element you want to use in your dominant hand. Try using separately at first.

Comfy? Now make a “socket” with your bottom 2 fingers and grip the sword pommel. It feels weird, but positive pressure helps. Get used to keeping your elbows down and and arms in tight. Have a few swings and parries. You're crouched down like a bare knuckle fighter.

This is Western martial arts. Every thrust & parry should be accompanied with a step forward. Every parry develops into an attack. Offensive parrying, leading to a thrust to shin or ankle, groin or throat/head. A sweeping attack to the armpit or throat. Obviously you cannot do all that, but be careful – it will happen. Practice indoors, around children, dogs and furniture.

Now the real deal. Arms in close, top weapon covering your face, sword tip covering your forward leg. Blade your groin. This is primarily a defensive style, so you want to parry your opponent as high as the combination allows. Now lay off the strike. Higher you can parry the more options you have.

If you want to strike, think of the preying mantis, a quick stab or slash to injure and open your opponent, of moving past and slashing. Bash, shove, stomp to get off balance then surgically strike.

Against a sword and shield you have 2 hands to stop shield to your left & below the grip, then parry that low blow. Step in pass the point and sweep sword into your opponent. You can also hit high with buckler then bringing sword point down into groin or leg.

Spear and shield, parry spear and step in. Block shield with body, sweep sword up.

Sword. Catch, use the momentum of the blow to deliver your point.

Axe or 2 handed weapon, aim your“T” to intercept and control the forward wrist

Horse. Shove the buckler in its face and slice its neck or parry the leg and stab/slice.

Rider. Parry, lay off or avoid the blow as high as possible, now bring your sword through the horse and twist away.

Advanced. On dangerous ground the sword could be used as a walking stick to aid in slips and locating trip hazards. You advance or retreat all slow and quiet like

If you encounter something “squishy” on the ground, give it a couple of tickles as friend or foe a grabbed leg or a dagger from below is not nice.

On ship or down dark alley. Stick your elbow out. Locate the wall and follow. Crouching helps. In fact everything the opposite of your stand up tall sword waggler!

* If you're using a party popper style larp pistol, this style lends itself well, as you pull the cord with the off-hand.