Monday, 30 November 2020

Lock down sword training, some thoughts.

 When you turn up at larp, reenactment or any hobby, the one thing you don't want to do is look a complete beginner and an idiot.  Basic tool use is often the stumbling block.

No tool has more BS attached to it than the sword. There are thousands of different sword use manuals online. To be brutally efficient, a sword is a tool that works by the principals of the lever.

Have you done this? You need you, a (wooden, tube style will crumble) broom or similar and a small child. Adult grabs (brush end) broom in 2 hands with determination not to let it move. Child puts single finger on tip of broom and moves it with ease while adult struggles and broom creaks.


This is my attempt to put several decades of edged weapon training and use into a basic guide. All this ended just as the European Martial Arts movement started to gain pace, so its all old school hands on experience. There are posh names for moves, but I never learned them.  I started out in the 1970's. There were 2 schools of reenactment, both originating from WW2 – no-one's ever proved it, but I'm sure ex soldiers needing the environment to work out their PTS had a LOT to do with it. You had the toffs playing civil war, pedantic history teachers with pikes. Then you had us, working class persons who took to sword & armour manufacture & use like the proverbial. Our societies had a biker mentality that seems to have disappeared along with the rise of English Heritage & living history (hawk, spit) Let me give you an example. Like the Foreign Legion, there were no rules about not drinking. But- if one of the leaders thought you were drunk, you got the flat of a sword hard in the stomach. If you proved sober, an apology would be given.


Different swords are designed for different jobs.

Long thin swords are designed for both thrusting and slashing. Triangular swords are thrusting weapons, both using the first hand breadth of the blade to do the damage. In both reenactment and larp thrusting is a big no-no. We got round this by passing the point past the opponent then bringing the blade onto the target. Practice, you'll find the grip helps deliver a firm but gentle blow. These are precision instruments where you probe for the gap in your opponents defence and armour.

Curved swords such as katanas, scimitars. Plus point heavy slashing weapons such as falchions and cutlasses are designed to keep swinging. These and shorter swords used in conjunction with a shield or buckler are often held in a firm grip as are tool-like weapons such as axes and hammers.

One handed heavier swords are designed for close in fighting with or without a shield.

Nothing gets my wosname than the Katana. This weapon is the correct size when the tip of the scabbard is just above the ankle. You see adult Europeans carrying those sized for a 12 year old. Then you see same being used 2 handed. It's a 1 handed weapon, the extra long handle makes up for the lack of pommel.

Note on armour or thick padding. It's possible for your opponent not to feel your hit, but if you hold it and apply pressure until they react. Hold a book to your arm and get someone to hit it.

Taking time to develop your style to reflect the use of the weapon is very satisfying and is usually appreciated. Think of your swords as shoes. You (could) have different ones for different uses and occasions. Nothing makes many opponents bottle out than switching styles, and/or hand mid fight.


You have a sword. Fantastic, now lets get used to it. Balance. Each sword has a point of balance. This becomes more important as you learn to control your sword. This is the point at which your sword would bend if it was a limb. Think of your back, for some reason it bends in one spot. The swords reaction to parrying is different above & below this point. My preference is 2” below the guard for a 1 hander and a hands breadth for a 2 hander. You'll notice an experienced person holding a new sword out test its balance & tapping leg to gauge the length.


Hit things. Poke things. Pet dogs, cats and children are very useful for this. I used (metal) to move paperbacks from one pile to another. A dog will make a game out of running close to you without getting hit on the bum. Careful, we had 2 dogs- the labrador was happy to bite, pick up the sword. You can imagine my mum's reaction to a dog carrying a bastard sword through the house. Yes, she (dog) could get through door frames. With a larp sword a hanging curtain tied into a roll is useful. This gets you used to the length and balance.



Getting to grips. Make your dominant hand like a lego hand. Look at it. This is slot “A” into which you slot sword tab “B”. Gently grip using ONLY first finger & thumb. Leave the rest of the hand open.

Start hitting things again. Yes you can do this with anything up to a double hander. The chap from Sussex who made the original Schwarzenegger Conan sword first made it properly in steel. He'd bring it to shows and I tried it. Yes, it was heavy but well balanced and I could swing it safely using the above grip. Stop if you start to get self molesters hand ache.

Got it? Good. Keep practising. Now, elbow in tight, sword straight up. Close your fingers. Look at the movement you get. This is how you deliver a soft blow. You guessed it, keep hitting things. If your kids start complaining, get them a sword. Character building.


There is one other. Hold the grip as you would a screwdriver. End bit now guards your wrist and the weapon is now an extension of the arm. If you move the grip down so the weapon is held firmly against the forearm. This is a good grip if using a weapon for parrying. This is very good at denying polearms in the lower register. You parry the polearm, preferably behind the head. Keep it in contact while stepping in. You're now past the pointy bit and can hit the carrier. If faced by multiple, you need to try and use the first polearm to entangle and block the other(s). I found this when my wife commissioned an excellent replica of a 11c sword. The grip was so small- and I have relatively small hands. But, if I held it so that the pommel fitted the inside of my wrist it was a perfect fit.


Double hander or bastard sword. Basic dominant hand is the same, but now you need to use your other hand. One hand provides the power, the other the control. First, try the “hard” grip. 2 hands grasping the grip as you would a cricket bat. This is ideal if you want to hit something, or someone, very hard. Practice both. Try both hands, if you can use both as a dominant hand, you're laughing.

Before you start, keep this in the back of your mind:

keeping your elbows tucked in protects your armpits and chest

guard and grip are there to protect your face

length of the sword is to protect your inner legs and groin, walking requires practice. Getting a kid to throw balls, cabbages, cats or small dogs at you is good training.


Now is the real lever part. The grip concentrates the control to the crossguard, it's the fulcrum. You need to keep the distance betwix your hands as long as possible for the maximum control. Using the same grip on the pommel so that it sits into the palm of your hand. Try it.

If you have a bastard or very well balanced double, try just using your thumb (my Dad drove milk tankers before power steering, he drove the family car with only his thumb on the wheel) Amazing the amount of movement you can get with just your thumb. You know – keep hitting.


Making a hit.

Courtesy. A sword should never be pointed directly at your opponent. If you or your opponent are pushed, trip or lurch forward the weapon must not be able to cause injury. You can open your hand or even drop your weapon to keep everyone safe. Accidents happen, so good practice is never wasted.

Hopefully you are now confident to face and hit your opponent.

Parry edge to edge with a sword. Try to parry with the back with a one edged weapon and with a reinforced bit with a wooden hafted weapon. If you can parry a sword with an axe blade – you're a natural, keep going!


Being parried. Annoyingly your opponent will not stand still to be hit. This is, of course, unfair and not playing cricket. What is worst, they don't politely wait until you kill one opponent before attacking you! Unfortunately this bit needs more than your dog carrying a stick, cat suspended by tail* or child with own weapon.

*you could try several tied to different heights from a tree, get them swinging.


The 5's. This is an old, old method. Think of Da Vinci's famous drawing (it was on every note book in skool) demonstrating that man is the measure of all things. The body is an X with an extra downward strike to the head making the 5th. Just because you're not supposed to be hit there, or receive a thrust from a sword should not stop you practising that defence.

The angles of the X are the main angles of attack and defence. Rules differ, but as a good rule of thumb is that if there's an area you don't like to be hit, do not hit others. This may differ in your opposite sex. Please use common sense and fight WITH your opponent, not AGAINST.


Having said that, there are several situations such as fighting multiple opponents, close or slippery ground that multiply accidents. We did one show in Fort Widley where it was dark, slippery and we were greatly outnumbered. We were both using polearms. Fay's was hit hard at the top, the other end was propelled into the naughty bits of the lad in front of her. I got clobbered 3 times on the head, one time knocking my glasses of. Always have a spare pair and wear old ones in combat if at all.


We all have a weak quarter that is the hardest/slowest to defend. Your choice of weapon(s) should reflect this:

If you use a shield the area below the reach of the shield is always vulnerable.

Shields also shield your opponent.

Shields can block line of site.


Many larpers fight with short weapons relying in getting in close to make multiple hits. This can be difficult at first as it puts you on the defensive and getting to absorb these initial contacts is a worthwhile skill. In reenactment you had (have?) the (usually) young lady with a long, thin, fast polearm & dagger relying on speed and maneuverability plus a willingness to hit you anywhere.


Dry stick parry. That sounds silly, I've no idea where that phrase originated but you'll feel what it means. When you parry you tend to do so with a right angle, so the weapons look like +. Nothing wrong with that, you're not being hit is good. But- where do you go from there?

What to do next is cultural. If you're in a shield wall you have to stay in line and hit anything that presents itself. So your response is to dress to your comrades.

Eastern culture emphasises the repetition of a series of moves, with parrying seemingly accidental and continued repetition is the correct response.

Western culture teaches that every thrust & parry is accompanied by a step forward. The aim is to push through your opponent.

As you progress & gain in confidence you'll come up against different weapons and varying levels of skill. Gain experience & analyse your fights. What could you have done better?


Well, now you've got used to your weapon, had some experience. Don't get put off by losing. Losing teaches you faster than winning. Thank your opponent and don't be afraid to ask for pointers. Be courteous. It's a game.


Now lets move on. You're used to your weapon being hit? The feel of different hits?

Remind yourself of the balance point. Remember I said that is where the sword wants to bend?

Angles. If you use a shallow angle so you have more edge in contact than your opponent. You now have more control.

Now take that close, on, or pass that magical point. You can now roll your blade in contact, keep a firm contact, and keep the opponents blade going in the direction it was already going.

IT IS ALWAYS EASIER TO MAKE SOMETHING GO

IN THE DIRECTION IT IS ALWAYS GOING.


So with the weapon out of the way you (usually) have 3 quarters available to hit.

Everything else comes with practice and hands on experience. Go out there and enjoy. There are no super weapons. A weapon is a tool that is used either rightly or wrongly for purpose. 

 There are highly skilled and /or sneaky individuals that you should pit yourself against at every opportunity. 

There are also utter prats who see a sword as “power” by hitting everything as hard and as often as possible.  Avoid.

Have a laugh, have fun!






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